Finding Maya - A Sideways Glance at Pinot Noir

I have recently returned from an excursion to a number of California’s wine regions North of the Golden Gate Bridge. I celebrated the 4^th of July national holiday with a number of wine folk at a BBQ in Healdsburg, the town home to a number of the large wine companies’ offices in Sonoma County – Kendall Jackson, Gallo, Allied Domecq. As a wine lover rather than a winemaker or viticulturist, I listened in on a conversation Merry Edwards and Ken Coopersmith of Merry Edwards Wines in the Russian River Valley, Susan Doyle of Diageo and Michael Kluczko (ex-Corbans, Lion Nathan Wines, Turkey Flat, Beringer) were having about that varietal often called “The Heartbreak Grape”, pinot noir.

No other varietal evokes as much technical discussion about rootstock (used to graft vines onto to obviate the risk of phylloxera) and clones. 101-14 versus Schwarzmann and a UC Davis clone versus one from Dijon. I tucked into my burger while the fireworks lit up the night sky and similar heat (read passion) emanated from my colleagues in the wine game.

I would venture that at least half of all the winemakers I have met regard pinot noir as their greatest challenge, their greatest aspiration. For many of them, as well as New Zealand’s own Mr. Wine, Bob Campbell, MW, pinot noir can be the greatest of wines, elegant, ethereal, subtle and supple, gentle even. Close your eyes and think: violets, cherries, strawberries, licorice, mushrooms, dried flowers, herbs, plums, spice. Now tell me that your mouth is not watering.

Navarro from the Anderson Valley at Paterna in Ukiah, Mendocino County.

Day 4 on the itinerary was devoted to the Napa Valley, the Hollywood (Disneyland?) of wine regions. An early start had me strolling into forbidden territory through the vineyards of Dominus. One grand winery cheek to jowl with the next, from the elegant and restrained Opus One with its French-inspired architecture and interior and the rooftop tasting area, to Nickel & Nickel, a sister winery to Far Niente, that only produces individual vineyard wines. The theme here is American Farm with a large barn hiding an ultra-modern winery and another rustic building housing offices; Niebaum – Coppola, Mondavi, Dominus, St. Supery, Domaine Chandon,

If you have been on the search to find that magic encounter with pinot noir, maybe you, just like Miles (Paul Giamatti) in the movie will find your Maya (Virginia Madsen). You have to keep trying and I recommend that you try pinot noir from wines from Will you find your way to pinot noir. http://www2.foxsearchlight.com/sideways/ Wine tasting 101, step 1 is spit out your gum!